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Bean there, done that

Jack Rozycki

25 April 2008

YOU may have noticed that some of the most ubiquitous coffee bars on the peninsula and many people's favourite local watering holes haven't got a mention. We're talking about the big chains that are franchise operations.

The fascinating part of this is that while coffee-bar chains came into being only in the 1980s, espresso bars have been a feature of Sydney's life since the '50s. Perhaps there's been a kind of cross-pollination, because the espresso mania has never been more intense. The chains are Michel's we visited Forestville Mall, Freshwater, and the Allambie Rd shopping strip; Gloria Jean's we visited Frenchs Forest and Manly Wharf; and the Coffee Club we visited their Warringah Mall bar.

The thing to remember here is that you're not dealing with a multinational company face-to-face, the franchisees are cafe proprietors like any other, and indeed some are better at it than others within the one brand. But the coffee varies less than it does between standalone espresso bars; perhaps this is part of the design homogeneity. It is therefore quite legitimate to review the chains by brand.

Gloria Jean's

Gloria Jean's has a pervasive presence throughout Australia's shopping centres. It has brought real coffee to where none existed before and for that it should be applauded. Its marketing direction is to provide a home-like atmosphere with comfy chairs and couches, though the premises vary in size: Forestway is tiny, with two armchairs. Forestville Mall is quite large, with a number of couches and daily newspapers for patrons and a pleasant, cavern-like interior.

Coffee: The coffee is quite peppery, even penetrating in its taste. Gloria Jean's takes an American approach by offering myriad milky concoctions. The sharp taste of its coffee may suit a milked up ``frappuccino'' the word is actually a trademark of Starbucks but it is certainly a mouthful for the Daily's delicate tastebuds. The coffee judged across the chain is reckoned to be between one and two cups on our taste scale for a short black. We'll tell you our experience of the other chains in the coming weeks, space permitting. In the meantime, we continue our coffee journey below.

FRESHWATER

Clockwork Cafe
7b Lawrence St
Ambience: Big café with comfy seating, replete with newspapers and mags. Villagey feel, and is apparently a favourite Freshie meeting spot.

Coffee source: Divi. Its claim to fame is that it's ``wood-fire'' roasted. Does it help? We couldn't taste or smell the wood smoke as such in the coffee, and maybe that's a good thing. Coffee flavours are complex enough as it is.

Coffee: Astringent. Left a very long-lasting aftertaste and a powerful caffeine buzz. Perhaps this is because Divi is a robusta blend? Didn't quite work for us, being too bitter, but the word is that it makes a tip-top long black (the Daily samples its coffee as a short black with no sugar). 2 and 1/2 cups.

The Freshwater Club
Lawrence St
Ambience: Comfortable, country-style wooden tables and chairs. In the morning it is the busiest of all the cafes in the village, the downside being that you may have to wait for your coffee as the place does roaring trade in takeway coffee served in huge styrofoam containers.
Coffee source: Elbon Coffee's bespoke blend for Freshwater Club.
Coffee: Clean taste, nice blend with vanilla hints. 3 1/2 cups.

TERREY HILLS

p'nees
Yulong Ave shops
Ambience: Clean, clinical look with stainless steel chairs and stools. Caters to local business and lunchtime trade.
Coffee source: Mokador
Coffee: Snappy with high bright notes in the back of the palate. Long-lingering aftertaste. 3 cups

ALLAMBIE SHOPS

La Crema Lounge
Grigor Pl
Ambience: Large shop, shoppers
Coffee source: Danes
Coffee: Typical Danes with big body. 2 1/2 cups.

FRENCHS FOREST

Foodtales
40 Bantry Bay Rd
Ambience: Near the old ``blinking light'' just off Warringah Rd, the cafe is a natural and discreet meeting spot for business types from the nearby industrial parks. Foodtales is also a business caterer. Footpath tables on the street have the benefit of a leafy reserve across the road. On a nice day it provides a quiet break.
Coffee: Fairly basic, but without any flavour defects and quite well drawn.
Coffee source: Molinari. 2 ½ cups